Carnaval!

Where the market use to it yesterday on the streets is now where the festival is. Officially we were suppose to pay to get seats on the bleachers for carnaval but somehow we found seats on the front row that were empty and we just settled there for nothing. Saved over 100bolviano each.

Front row meant we were in the middle of all the madness. During any break where there was a gap between the marches, there was an all out war. It was one side of the street against the other. Dozens of water balloons flying from across the street. Our only choice was to fight back which probably made it worse. Since we were in the front row, we were more prune to get hit and believe me we did. I’m soaked in water. What topped it all off was spray cans of foam. We were sprayed at a lot. We bought a few cans ourselves and got anyone in sight. What was funny is spraying someone from behind and as they turn around just put the can away and theyre covered in white foam and confusion. Its expected so much that most people buy panchos to not get their clothes wet. I had tons of fun throwing water balloons and foaming random people.

The dances, music, costumes, and of course the girls were all fantastic. The dances were very repetitive but it made sense with the music. Looked to be a traditional dance the Indianian of Bolivia would do. The music had a drummy tribal sound to it. All the bands played songs the locals knew. Chanting and singing from the beat as they all knew the lyrics to whatever song being played made for an amazing atmosphere. Though i didn’t know any of the lyrics, i clapped and got excited with them. We even talked to a few people sitting around us who most were from Bolivia. The costumes the dancers would wear were crazy. All custom made and beautiful. Their were costumes of devils, angels, strange animals, and who knows what else. I think my camera broke because it kept taking pictures of the girls dressed up. Hmm.

After several several beers, soaked, and covered in white – we couldn’t handle anymore. For hours it seemed more and more marches kept coming in never ending. Time to call it a day. These Bolivians take Carnaval to a whole different level you cant even imagine.

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First day at Carnaval

Loving the luxury of this hotel. Though we paid quite a lot for it, it does show. Finally a decent internet which is why you been seeing me online more often. Taking full advantage of the free breakfast.

For lunch we decided to have something different besides chicken, rice, and fries which seems to be the cheapest and most filling food in Bolivia for about a dollar. So walked into just any restaurant. It was packed with Bolivians so we figured it was a safe call. Best part about lunch is its set menus. When we got the menu we couldn’t really understand which was a set meal and which wasn’t and talking to the lady proved to be just as difficult. Never thought trying to understand the same language we were talking in would be hard to understand. Eventually we ordered and I got a Lomo meal and Teresa got a milenesa meal. Huge platters for 25bolivianos each. Ive tried their beer here as well called Huari. Its crap. Seems watered down.

We had to walk all this food off and we decided to walk down the Carnaval streets that are blocked off from cars. The strip where the Carnaval will take place tomorrow has been taken over by markets of food, clothing, Carnaval party favors like masks, foam spray, waterballoons. and, waterguns. The amount of people on the streets nearly makes it un-walkable. As packed as a popular concert for several blocks long.

Throwing of waterballons is prohibited in Oruro because of the lack of water they already have. Doesn’t seem like the law did much because there’s a war going on with waterballoons and waterguns. As Teresa and I walked down further there seemed to be more open space then usual. I look around theres more then a dozen kids locked and load all around us. Suddenly were charged and basically jumped into a pool of water. The waterballoons actually hurt sometimes when they threw it with force. Teresa got hit in the arm which made for a nice red mark and i got hit in the face. We ran for safety. I had to get revenge. There seemed to be a few white folks trying to conqure them so i decided to join in. Teresa stood way back as she watched. I got 10 balloons and was ready for war. I hit a few kids but we were clearly out numbered. They scream and about 20 kids rush into us. I got hit again in the face and this time it hurt a heck of a lot more. I threw my last remaining ballons and called it quits – at least for now…

I started feeling sick. This altitude seriously gets to me sometimes. Head was pounding and i was breathing harder. Went to the hotel to rest. Seems like all that action was too much for the altitude im in.

By night time i felt better and i decided to scroll the streets again while Teresa did her things on the computer. The atmosphere changed on the same blocks Teresa and i walked on earlier. There were just as many food stall as there were people and that’s thousands. The selling of clothing went away and got replaced by food and beer and night. The scent of food was beautiful and i wanted to just try everything in site. For 5boliviano i got a choripan then for 3 i got this shot of some sort of alcohol with foamy milk. For one dollar i ate well and got a small buzz going. Beautiful! The rest of the atmosphere was filled with music and dancing.

I cant even imagine how tomorrow is going to be like.

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Not much to do but eat

Woke up early because i slept early since there really isn’t anything to do in Villazon town. Took advantage of course of the included breakfast. Checked out of the hostel to do some random walking around and find some food. I noticed a door leading downstairs and on the door just said some foods they were serving. We decided to check it out. Neat clean restaurant that seemed a bit more expensive then what we been eating so far in Bolivia. Sat down and there’s no menus and instead the guy explains set menus they are serving that day. Teresa and I go for the milenesa set meal. First comes the salad, then a big bowl of amazing soup, then came the milenesa itself with fries and vegetables. There was some sort of red liquid spice in the middle of the table that we could add but i had no idea what it was. Pretty good taste, should have asked what it was. It didnt end there, there was a rice pudding dessert. Couldnt have possible ate more. Two set meals that included everything and a 2 liter bottle of water cost us 36boloviano ($5USD).

We killed more time by wandering till around 2. We saw the 2 danish guys a few more times throughout the day. When we arrived at the train station, we saw the Argentine couple as well. Entering the train the Argentine couple end up sitting right behind us.

The train ride was had wonderful scenery. Took over a 100 pictures just from outside our window. Mountains and plain fields that seemed untouched. Later in the night we went to the restaurant section of the train. Eating the usual Bolivian dish of Chicken and Rice. I was wearing my BeerLao shirt when a guy behind us asked what my shirt said. From there we ended up talking for hours. He was from Villazon, Bolivia and got lots of insider local information about the country. We must have been talking for at least over an hour. Nice guy and a great way to get opinions of the locals and where to go in their country.

8 hours later we arrive at Uyuni.

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I got shot at

We had purchased a night bus from Salta to Bolivia border. The hostel front desk had said that we’d make it on time for the train to 3:30pm Uyuni train from the border if we bought the afternoon train but we figured its way better to stay safe and just get there very early. The midnight bus arrives at the border between Argentina and Bolivia at 7am. We had left Salta in about 95 degree F with sun burns so you can imagine our shock when we arrived in 40 degree F weather getting off the bus. Came out litterily shaking and unprepared with my flip-flops, shorts, and tshirt. Been awhile since ive felt this cold.

We’ve arrived in Quiaca (border town in Argentina) and the first thing we did was get to the restroom to change into warm clothing. After i got directions to the Bolivia border, we walked over to it since it was only a few blocks away. Quiaca seemed like a pretty depressing little town. Exiting Argentina was a piece of cake. The fun begins at customs of Bolivia though. We get to the visa window and were handed some paperwork to fill out. As Teresa hands them her passport, the first page of the passport falls off. He wouldnt accept the passport in that condition and asked that we fixed it or nothing. For some random reason and no purpose but for ‘just incase’ purposes, we had a roll of tape. Had to dig through our bags for 10min looking for it but eventually fixed it and they accepted it. Next they asked for passport photos which ive had lots of since i made them in China. Teresa however did not, we tried getting them the day before but failed in Salta. They luckily said its OK. To keep the excitement going, it was time to pay for the visa. We had already expected te $135usd visa fee and took out accordingly in Salta before we left. However we were given a horrible exchange rate which got us paying a little more. We hardly had enough but just made it. Stamped and IN!

There’s an instant change in environment. Were at the border town in Bolivia called Villazon. Much more lively then Quiaca. There are many markets on the streets selling clothing, cheap cell phones, and street food. Its been months since I’ve last seen street food and I’ve severely missed it. Cheap filling delicious local food. Then of course the people are much darker. One huge difference is the language. I’ve been in Argentina the last 4 months getting everything down from the accent and lingo of BA locals and improved quite a bit on my Spanish. Coming to Bolivia though i feel as if i need to relearn Spanish. I cant quite catch what I don’t understand about it but its sounding more slurrish to me right now. Words arr being used I’ve never heard before. What gets to me is I know how to speak Spanish just fine and they all understand me however i cant understand them sometimes. After a few convos with the locals i did realize i could get use to it and ill likely get better at understanding them over time. Ill tell you for a fact though that i love my half broken accent at Buenos Aires accent so I’m keeping it.

The journey to the train station wasn’t easy. Carrying all our backpacks, we had to walk about 15 blocks down. We even passed it up by a few blocks noticing something isn’t right when there was nothing around us but dirt road and trucks. We stopped along the way to buy some street food. It was a ham sandwich and chocolate milk which filled us up nicely for an economical price of 1 dollar for 2 people. The weather by now is about 70 degrees F but the sun is still strong. Finally arrive at the train station and we que up for tickets. We’ve made friends with a few people waiting, 2 Argentine guys, Argentine couple, and 2 danish guys. The Argentine couple offered us some Mate and we had random convos while waiting. Missing Argentina already. As we wait we found out all tickets for today has been sold out. According to the schedule board, the next train is Saturday. There seemed absolutely nothing to do in this town so i did not want to stay. When my number was called and i asked for a ticket for today i was told there’s one leaving for tomorrow and its even a better train and we get better seats. It always works out. Not bad. Got our tickets for tomorrow and were off to find ourselves a place to sleep. We stay hanging out with the danish guys to look for this hostel lonely planet book recommended us called Hostal Plaza.

Its more like a hotel room. We paid 115bolivian for a private room. That’s about 16 US dollars. After walking around town we realized we had gotten the most expensive room in town. After checking in we set to explore, eat, and see whats around. The markets were fun to explore and the prices on clothes are the cheapest ive ever seen in my life. I don’t feel like carrying more since my backpack is already quite heavy and full so i skipped out and held myself back though i do need warmer clothing soon for Uyuni and La Paz. I did get some socks and a hackysack for the heck of it. More random eats as well on the streets including an empanada and fresh orange juice. We then attempted to get on the internet and i say attempted because the internet moves like a turtle. The first internet cafe could hardly load 2 pages but the next one we tried was more like an internet gaming cafe with a dozen kids playing warcraft3 with each other. Again though i was maybe able to load 5 more pages compared to last time. The town has fully run out of water by noon but at least the kids can play warcraft3 on nice computers. Interesting. I found out there was no water when we tried to get someone to wash our clothes. For dinner we walked into a random restaurant and ordered fries chicken with fries and big bottle of juice. Cost was $4USD for 2 people. I can get use to this.

While we walking through town in the markets, I got shot from the back. It was a cold feeling and scared me. I turn around and its a little girl with a watergun laughing. I play along and pretend to be hurt as i try to run away and continue to be shot at. The town as well as the entire south and Central America is preparing itself for Carnaval by selling waterguns, powder to throw, and other party things. That said, we had to plan accordingly where we want to party for carnival. We decided after Uyuni to go to Oruro where the 13th and 14th the town transforms itself for Carnaval partying.

Back to travel

As usual, I’ve been quite busy. Here’s the summary…

First I’ll start with the big announcement. Starting February 1st, I’ll be traveling from here in Buenos Aires, Argentina to New York City by only land transportation. Yes, it’s a long long way up there. With nearly spending 4 months in Buenos Aires, I’m getting the itchy travel feeling to go somewhere and keep moving. Busing it to Salta, Argentina and from there into Bolivia, Peru, etc all the way north. Of course staying in each destination for a few days doing the exploring thing. I’m having a mini rush just thinking about this new trip. To add, Teresa will be coming to Buenos Aires on the 24th and is coming along on the trip. Should be a good time! Back to what backpacking is all about. I’m extremely limited on cash so this will require a bit more on the “roughing it” end.

Thank you!! I’ve recently received a donation though someone I don’t know at all from djskylab.com. It came from making a thread over at NCC Message Board about my trip plans and then I suddenly received a Private Message from a member. He was in Buenos Aires a few years ago and my blog had reminded him of his time in Buenos Aires. The message said to buy a drink on him. Thanks again!!! That was extremely kind and very unexpected.

My brother and sister visited me in Buenos Aires. I’d love to write about what we did everyday but it’d be far too much writing and I’m way behind already. It’s a shame but believe me when I tell you that we had an amazing time. Nothing like Grandma’s home cooked food! Then the relaxed garden she has puts you in another world. Cristian has grown so much since I last saw him 8 months earlier. Joanna is looking great as well! Ah it was so good to see them again. Many randomness. A quick thing on what we did.

  • Joanna, Marina, and I went to Bomba Del Tiempo. Crazy!
  • Went to the Buenos Aires Zoo with Cristian, Joanna, Grandma and I.
  • Ate at Siga la vaca with Cristian, Joanna, Grandma and I.
  • Days of random shopping.
  • Street of Serrano with Joanna and tagging along with random people. Met up with Lisa and Emiko as well at their hostel.
  • iPhone got lots of attention with Cristian.
  • Drinking night out with our uncle and aunt with Joanna.
  • Asado!

And tons of more random things that made for a good 2 weeks of fun. I miss them already. *Sigh* See you guys again soon!

Continuing my tango. Still taking Tango classes and in between taking Rock and Salsa. Getting the hang out of it and love it a lot.

I have two CouchSurfers staying over. Thought I’d let my place open up for CouchSurfers so right now I have two people staying with me. Israeli and Aussie guy. Both just backpacking along South America. Very interesting stories and learning a few recipes from the Israeli guy. Nice people. Last few days we been just hanging out. Watched Sherlock Holmes drunk. Went to Bomba of course. Tango. Tons of Mate. And lots and lots of cooking. It’s nice because we have a full house here and everyone just chips in to whatever with cleaning, cooking, etc. CouchSurfers make a good team.

Well not much else. Just excited to get to traveling again. Still volunteering at LIFE. I’ve been coordinating at Laferrere and meeting some wonderful people there that I hope to stay in touch with after I leave. I’ll likely update again sometime next week I hope. Perhaps with more details next time.

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